1230 Courtland Ave.
Columbus, OH 43201
Columbus distilleries are proving that they are more than just creators of craft cocktails. The debut of Watershed Kitchen and Bar in early 2017 left me impressed with the food menu as well as the drink list, and Service Bar is making just the same waves. Open since October, the Middle West Spirits-based eatery is led by former Veritas chef Avishar Barua and the cuisine is unquestionably delightful. My recent meal there was one of my favorites of 2017.
The menu is designed around small plates, great for someone like me who loves to nibble on a little of everything. So grab some friends, order up as many dishes as you can muster, and get to sharing! Begin with the Bread and Butter course, boasting crumbly bits of pepperoni swirled into butter, ready for spreading on a warm pineapple bun as a sweet and salty treat. The Cheese and Poof is another good snack option to start (fire-roasted pimento cheese dip, barrel-aged hot sauce, and pork rinds).
Next, go for the Cheesy Brisket Crunch; it’s “upscale Taco Bell” in the best possible way. These large, crunchy taco shells are filled with tender brisket, cheddar, thinly shaved lettuce, and queso, all wrapped in a soft circle of Indian fry bread. The rib-stickiness of the potato gnocchi with oxtail and squash is comfort food at its finest, and the umami glaze on the Asian Crispy Ribs (accompanied by fried broccoli and radish) is utterly craveable. Make sure to ask about the daily specials too; during my last visit there were wonderful white barbecue sauce-slathered wings available. There are a few more noteworthy selections too that I’ve yet to taste, such as an appealing-looking pastrami sandwich and a whole chicken celebration, meant to be split by the table. Another visit is in order to dine on these dishes!
Don’t discount dessert or the drinks, even though this post focuses on the food. Try the playful take on cookies and cream, or the caramel-laden Cinco Leches cake. As for drinks, bourbon fans will revel in the smoky Hard Pour Corn, containing OYO bourbon, OYO whiskey, Vida Mezcal, roasted corn and pepper syrup, and BBQ bitters. The bright and creative Strawberry Feels Forever (OYO vodka, lemon essence, limoncello, strawberry, jalapeño, basil oil) is perfectly tangy. You can also opt for a shareable punch for 4 or an Old Fashioned tasting flight.
Culinary Clue: Given the popularity of the restaurant and the small size of the space, reservations are a must. You might get lucky and snag a seat at the bar, but planning ahead is a good idea in this case.
Have you sampled Service Bar yet? What was your favorite dish? Shoot me a message on Instagram and let me know!